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Monday, August 17, 2015

Maritime Shorts, Revisited


After my success revisiting the Simplicity 1803 pattern last week, I decided to look again at another pattern I have already made - Grainline Maritime shorts. The fit out of the envelope was actually pretty good, and I wear my leopard pair often, but I wanted to see if I could get an even better fit.



After doing a little research online, I decided that I should adjust the crotch curve shape to get a better fit for me. I started with a straight size 8, and then made the adjustments. Here's my adjusted pattern pieces, on top of the standard pattern. The red outlines my adjusted pattern, and the purple outlines the original. I made a quick muslin of the two front and two back pieces, and the fit was good enough for me to try the pattern with my real fabric.


I used a leopard print denim fabric (yes, I do need more than one pair of leopard print shorts!). Besides, this print is not as flashy as my other leopard print pair so it's more versatile. Or at least that's my excuse. I don't know what the term for this type of fabric is, but the leopard print is made of velvet, so it is a raised/textured design on top of denim. Anyone know what that is called? I was worried that the velvet would melt or peel off when I washed, dried, or ironed it, but I did not have any trouble with that.



The fabric was great to work with, and very comfortable to wear because it has some stretch to it. I swear I took a picture of the bolt when I bought this fabric so I would remember how much spandex was in it, but of course, I can't find it now.



I highly recommend this pattern, although I did have some trouble understanding some of the steps the first time around. I found some of the wording to be confusing, but I looked at a step by step photo tutorial online, which made everything clear. I didn't even use the instructions this time, just the photo tutorial. Also, I forgot to mention this last time - for the back waistband (piece 10), it says to cut two pieces but you really need four. It took me a while to figure out it was probably a misprint... I was so confused! I recently got an email that they've updated this and a few other things on the instructions, but if you're using the old version, you need to remember to cut 4 of piece 10.


As far as the fit goes, the adjustment produced a more natural and comfortable fit in the crotch area. However, it didn't completely solve the fit problem I was seeing - there are still horizontal wrinkles on the front coming out from around the zipper. But last night, I think I may have figured out the adjustment I need to make to fix that... So now I'm off to attempt another pair with that adjustment, and will certainly update if it does solve my wrinkle problem!

6 comments:

  1. these look fantastic! how did you know how much to adjust the crotch curve? :)

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    1. I took a long piece of tin foil (a flexible ruler would work too, if you have one) and rolled it up into a tube that can hold its shape. I used it to measure the shape of my crotch, then carefully lowered it down - try not to distort the shape! Then I traced the shape onto a piece of paper, then compared that to the pattern, and adjusted the shape to fit my newly measured curve.

      I cant find the site I actually used, but hopefully this can help illustrate a bit:
      http://sarahlizsewstyle.blogspot.com/2013/03/pants-crotch-experiment-part-1.html

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  2. These look great! I've seen lots of lovely Maritimes, seems like a good pattern :)

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    Replies
    1. Thanks! And, yes, it definitely is a good pattern!

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